This time, we’re going to talk about White Spots On Japanese Maple Trunk. There is a lot of information about White Spots On Japanese Maple Tree Leaves on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

Tar Spot On Japanese Maple and Horticulture For Home Gardeners are also linked to information about Gardening FAQ. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about White Fungus On Maple Tree Branches and have something to do with White Fungus On Japanese Maple Leaves. White Spots On Japanese Maple Trunk - white spots on red maple tree

87 Tips to White Spots On Japanese Maple Trunk | The Blog

  • I have a young maple that has little pointed tips on the face of all the leaves, they are about 1/4 inch long and there are about 10 to 20 on every leaf. The tree is leafing well but not growing good. This is the second year I have noticed this. I haven’t seen anyone else here with this problem. - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew on a soy bean plant. It’ll look similar on a maple. By Madan subedi01 from Wikimedia Commons - Source: Internet
  • Hi I have a maple tree in my back yard that has sap leaking on the west side of the tree. There seems to be insects the move within the bark of the tree. the sap only goes about three feet down the tree, and the tree looks wet in the area until you get close to observe it then you see that the sap is being leaked out of the tree. should I spray the tree for the insect? What is you suggestion pls - Source: Internet
  • Prized for their display of fiery fall foliage colors, maple trees are suitable for diverse settings. They are also susceptible to a fungal disease called powdery mildew that can cause cosmetic damage and diminished health. When you notice what resembles a white powder on your maple leaves, you are looking at the telltale sign of infection. Home gardeners should snap into action as soon as symptoms appear to prevent the damage, which includes yellowing, distortion and early drop of leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Sam, Some maple trees this past spring experienced die back due to a late frost/cold snap. If this is the only problem you notice, the tree may sprout a second set of leaves this summer, but they will be smaller than those on the “good side” of the tree. I would take a “wait and see” approach if the rest of the tree appears to be in good health, and it was healthy overall last year. In addition, try using a one-time application of a tree fertilizer to help your tree recover more quickly. Personally, I’ve had luck with Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub (available at WalMart and other similar stores in the garden section) for my maples. - Source: Internet
  • We live in NW Indiana and have several groves of possibly 35 year old silver maples,last summer we took down one with a triple trunk because between the trunks was some kind of nest that formed rather quickly. It filled the inside of the trunks with what looked like peat but was infested with what looked like very tiny white ants. Now we have a second double trunk that the very same thing is happening to although as I scraped out this peat type material the bugs inside were also tiny but brown and look like ants. Can these be termites and if so is there any way to save this tree before it is totally eaten up? Thanks so much taking the time to post all the information here on your hub. - Source: Internet
  • Brown spots usually are an indicator of a leaf fungus known as leaf spot, especially if the spots are in a circular form. Another type of leaf disease that attacks Japanese Maples is anthracnose, which presents itself more in a free-form style of spots. In the beginning, either of these spots may seem insignificant, only affecting the aesthetics of your tree. However, severe cases of leaf disease can cause the leaves to fall off prematurely. - Source: Internet
  • Hi S. Baker, The spots sound like a fungal problem, but it also sounds like possibly something more serious, like verticillium wilt. Since you’re actually losing trees to this I really think you should call your county Cooperative Extension office and request that they come inspect your trees. Don’t plant any more maple trees until you have an answer as to what is causing the problem. If you have verticillium wilt, it lives in the soil and will continue to attack any new maples that you plant. - Source: Internet
  • I have a sugar maple that is 60 feet tall. Recently, a limb broke two inches in diameter. It had a brown soft center 3/4 inch in diameter surrounded by normal wood. Is this normal or diseased. - Source: Internet
  • Clearly, there was a gap in the Japanese maple world that led to some labeling confusion. Enter the Maple Society. Using their system, you’d know if you were looking at a correctly labeled atropurpureum that it would stay red all summer long. - Source: Internet
  • I have a 20" maple tree looking very good leaf wise with little or no dead lims/branches. However nearly all the bark around the tree is pealing off. The wood area under the bark apears dry and has pin holes showing. The tree looks so good but how can it survive? Your comments please - Source: Internet
  • ‘Kumoi Nishiki,’ also known as Siebold’s maple, (A. sieboldianum) has beautifully dappled leaves that feature a blend of creamy white and apple green. This plant stays under 10 feet tall. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Jeremy, Maples have had a really tough year, and many had it rough last year as well. The late frost, coupled with what seems like an increase in sucking insects are really stressing out the trees. I think the Bayer Advanced should help with reducing stress to your tree. Now the waiting game begins- most maples can leaf more than once when they are stressed, so your tree may show improvement by July. In the meantime, make sure your tree gets watered weekly (minimum) if there isn’t any significant rainfall in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Not to be confused with tar spot, these spots appear on a maple’s leaves, are tan to brown in the center, and are violently red to purple around the edges. The spots can also be small black pinpricks like a banana or mango that’s going bad. Caused By: The fungus Phyllosticta minima - Source: Internet
  • Lichen can be found on many maple varieties, but it’s more commonly seen on mature trees. Fortunately, it’s not harmful because it feeds off of the air rather than the trees. It doesn’t seem to have any long-lasting effects on the places where it grows. It can make it harder for the tree to get the nutrients that it needs via photosynthesis, depending on how large the lichen is and how much of the tree it covers. - Source: Internet
  • Answer: I would recommend calling your local Cooperative Extension for identification of the eggs you discovered on the tree bark. Bug varieties differ according to location, and I’m not an entomologist. It may be a borer beetle, but several different beetles affect maple trees. Once the eggs are correctly identified, you can decide the best way to treat your tree. - Source: Internet
  • Most varieties of Japanese maples that are sold in garden centers prefer acidic soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5 (pH 7 is neutral, any number below is acidic and any number higher then 7 is alkaline). - Source: Internet
  • Hi Jerry, So sorry for the delay in responding to you. The holidays bogged me down! I’m not sure exactly what may be causing the lesions you speak of. Did they occur as a result of a hard frost or a period of freezing weather followed by a warm thaw (or vice versa)? This can cause splits in the bark of maple trees. If this is the case, the tree will bounce back from the injuries, though they may look a little ugly until the tree ages a few more years. Avoid putting any type of paste or tar in the wounds as it only inhibits the healing process from this type of injury. - Source: Internet
  • . This can be a fence or additional plants or shrubs that provide a buffer to any drying winds. Increase the amount of shade . This is only if your Japanese maples in in full sun. If it has morning sun followed by shade during midday and the afternoon or dappled light throughout the day then this is a good balance. Japanese maples in full sun require shade to stay healthy. - Source: Internet
  • Anthracnose is a bit of a general term describing a wide range of symptoms. In general, though, these can be signs of the disease: leaves that curl around a dead-looking brown spot, tan or brown spots near the leaves’ veins, cankers, dying young branches, and premature leaf loss. Caused By: Various fungi such as Aureobasidium apocryptum, Discula campestris, Colletotrichum gloeosporioides, and Discula umbrinella. - Source: Internet
  • I have recently bought an acer from a garden centre which I planted in my garden. I also bought a smaller version which I have in a pot. Both have developed white spots on the leaves which look like drops of paint and don’t rub off. Looking on the internet it sounds as though it’s a fungal infection called phyllostica and various remedies are suggested none of which appear to be available in the UK - any suggestions anyone? - Source: Internet
  • Question: My red maple looks like it’s evenly coated in something shiny. The leaves look fine, but they are all sticky. This tree is planted next to a green maple that has no residue. What could this be? - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that leaves a superficial, white, dusty coating on leaves of a wide variety of plants. The cause is a group of related fungi that each attack a limited number of closely related plants. Powdery mildew tends to create a problem for gardeners in middle to late summer, reducing the strength and damaging the appearance of infected plants, but rarely killing them. Phyllactinia guttata is the fungus that afflicts maples, and it can pass the infection to other trees including birch, horse chestnut, hornbeam and dogwood. - Source: Internet
  • As for your tree not growing as fast as you think it should, many maples this year and last were stressed because of the late frost that hit them. To counter this, try using a mild fertilizer (I use Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub)- you only need to use it once a year. Next, make sure your tree is getting enough water. If it isn’t raining frequently, give the tree a good watering at least once a week. Your tree should rebound by mid-July; maple trees are generally very hardy. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Scott M., I think you are describing Maple Leaf Gall, which is a fungus. Check out my slideshow at the beginning of my article- slide #7 is a photo of this type of gall. While it can be treated with a fungicide, it usually needs to be done by a professional, especially if the tree is large. It is important to note that maple leaf gall will not harm the tree- it is just unsightly. - Source: Internet
  • Originally, J.D. Vertrees, a highly respected entomologist, grower, and educator based in Oregon who is generally thought of as one of the most knowledgeable Japanese maple experts in the West, grouped the plants into seven categories. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Hunter, If the spots are white and fuzzy it is probably leaf spot fungus. It won’t kill the tree. The fungus spores will winter over in the dead leaves on the ground, so rake up the leaves in your yard if you don’t want it coming back next year. If the spots make an appearance next year, you could spray the leaves with a fungicide; contact your county Cooperative Extension office (in the US) to find out what fungicides are allowed in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Gerber, just moved into a house with medium sized acer trees, I have no clue about gardening but think the trees might need some help! one of them is yellow/green in colour with reddish tips. The leaves are very small but the tree is quite dense, the leaves have curled from the tips and the tree looks like its dying. The second has deep red/purple leaves that now has little yellow spots on the leaves. Do you think these can be fixed, and if so how can i do this? - Source: Internet
  • I live in Dallas ,Texas and have a red maple that we planted four years ago and blooms great every year however this spring as of today I am still awaiting leaves. The tree started buding several weeks ago but we got some really bad storms and for the last month we have had very windy conditions. After a bad storm the buds and new little leaves dried up and seems as though tree still looks it goes in the winter. I see green on the trunk so I don’t think it’s dead. Do you know what is wrong? - Source: Internet
  • Question: My maple tree is in a pot. I’m guessing, based on what I’ve read, that the roots are compacted. Can I trim the roots and repot it? - Source: Internet
  • All trees are susceptible to this, but Japanese, Norway, and sugar maple are especially sensitive. Treatment: Ensure that your tree is amply watered. You can also put mulch around the tree’s base to help improve soil moisture retention. Additionally, you can prune any dead branches to help reduce the tree’s stress. - Source: Internet
  • Anthracnose is commonly mistaken for tar spot. However, it inflicts much more extensive damage because it affects both the leaves and the branches. You’ll find many more spots on the leaves that are typically smaller than the 1/8" tar spots. - Source: Internet
  • The white spots that you see are in fact thousands of tiny white bugs. They are often mistakenly identified by homeowners as mold or parts of the bark. Scale insects can be flat, small 1/16” long flecks, while others can be larger bumps almost the size of a ladybug, covering smaller twigs. - Source: Internet
  • Also I lost two larger sugar maple trees last year. Same thing happened, lost the leaves and then the trees died. I am ready to give up…..help! - Source: Internet
  • A dying Japanese maple is often because of fungal diseases pathogens that thrive in overly damp soils. Saturated soil promotes the conditions for root rot which cause dying Japanese maples. Too much wind, sun and not enough water also causes maples to have brown, wilted leaves and a dying appearance. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Pat Pope, I don’t think your tree is sick, rather, the age of the tree has much to do with what you’re seeing. Older maples tend to leaf out on the outermost part of the branches, while the inner parts of the branches have fewer leaves and small branches. In addition, if the leaves seem smaller this year (and perhaps last year as well), I believe it may be due to the late frosts we’ve had. My maple leaves are much smaller, for example, because the initial set of leaves were hit by frost right before they opened. - Source: Internet
  • . This is only if your Japanese maples in in full sun. If it has morning sun followed by shade during midday and the afternoon or dappled light throughout the day then this is a good balance. Japanese maples in full sun require shade to stay healthy. Water the maple generously and apply mulch. To help conserve moisture apply a one inch layer of mulch around the base of your maple of compost or leaf mould. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Mike, I suspect, based on your location, that your maple was anothr casualty of this year’s late frost. Maple trees can leaf out more than once during a growing season if they are stressed, so hang in there. The tree should recover, though it may be a month or so before you see any improvement. In the meantime, help your tree avoid any more stress- give it a mild tree fertilizer (I use Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub once a year, available at nurseries and WalMart, for example), and be sure it is watered well at least once a week when there isn’t sufficient rain. - Source: Internet
  • Anthracnose is a fungal disease usually caused due to high humidity during the rainy seasons. Here, the fungus attacks the leaves and stems, forming spots throughout. Even if you prune the affected leaves and stems, the fungus will remain attached to the pruned plant parts. As a result, they can thrive on them before releasing the spores. Hence, if one leaf of the Japanese Maple is affected, all other parts will suffer from the disease if proper care is not taken. - Source: Internet
  • The maple tree tar spot is fairly easy to identify. It’s caused by a fungal pathogen in the genus Rhytisma. While this affects maple trees in general, it especially targets Norway, silver, and sugar varieties. Tar spot will not kill your trees, but it’s unsightly and can cause them to drop their leaves before the fall season. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Mary, There are several beetles that may be responsible, or they could be carpenter ants (which wouldn’t kill your tree, they’re attracted to the honeydew). What has me concerned is the description of a peat-like material and the color of the insects; I’m not sure whether something is eating your tree (beetle), or if your tree is rotting. In either event, I suggest you contact your county Cooperative Extension office and request that they investigate it. Currently there are several species of beetle that are invading maple and ash trees, killing them in large numbers. - Source: Internet
  • I live in downtown Chicago and for this summer almost all of the maple trees in our neighborhood have developed white spots on the green leaves. It almost looks as though someone has sprayed them with white paint or something. I don’t know much about trees but I’m worried about them. I read most of the comments above and have not found any mention of similar problems. - Source: Internet
  • Purple-bordered leaf spot is caused by the fungus Phyllosticta minima which overwinters in leaf litter. In the spring, rain and wind move spores of the fungus from the leaf litter to newly developing maple leaves, where infections occur. Spores produced on infected leaves can lead to additional infections within the tree canopy throughout the growing season. - Source: Internet
  • If available, select maple varieties that are resistant to purple-bordered leaf spot. Compost, bury or burn leaf litter from infected trees in the fall, or in the spring before trees releaf. Newly planted maples, and established maples that have been severely affected by purple-bordered leaf spot for several years, may benefit from treatments with a fungicide containing chlorothalonil, copper, mancozeb, neem oil, sulfur or thiophanate-methyl. Three treatments may be needed for adequate control: one at bud break, one when leaves are half expanded, and one when leaves are fully expanded. Be sure to read and follow all label instructions of the fungicide that you select to insure that you use the fungicide in the safest and most effective manner possible. - Source: Internet
  • Aphids are sucking pests, often found in the leaves of the Japanese maples. These insects are relatively small and hard to identify. They take nutrients from the leaves, causing them to dry and fall off. Besides, the infestation usually occurs at a large scale, and multiple leaves are affected simultaneously. This reduces the canopy volume and minimizes the brilliance of the leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Getting rid of brown leaf spot, anthracnose, white spots or lichen is rather easy. The good news is that none of these discolorations are cause for major concern, although you may need to spend a little time and put forth some effort to get rid of them if you want your tree to look stunning again. While applying a fungicide may seem like the best idea, it isn’t always necessary. Here’s what to do instead. - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew is inhibited by extreme heat and extended periods of rain. Some powdery mildews can assume a form that allows them to live on the bark or buds of their victim through the winter and that is the case for maples. So good care and location is essential. I recommend this Missouri Botanical Garden fact sheet about Japanese maple care so you can give your tree the best possible care and position. - Source: Internet
  • My tree looks like it’s starting to have some problems. I setup a page for it http://stoneblue.com/ken/mapletree with photos and description . - Source: Internet
  • When you water your tree, avoid spraying water on the tree’s leaves. Instead, irrigate directly at the base of the tree. Be sure to water in the morning, rather than in the evening so that the tree can dry during the day. Watering at night, although usually is more convenient, means water may settle on the tree’s leaves or trunks, which makes the spots worse. - Source: Internet
  • Answer: I don’t believe that you damaged or killed the tree. The black residue is just the sap. You happened to cut the tree when the sap had started flowing in spring (maple syrup making time!). - Source: Internet
  • Question: A big piece of bark fell off my large silver maple tree. It looks like there are eggs on the underside. What is this? - Source: Internet
  • This is one of the most common but hazardous pests for the Japanese maple species. They have a white armored crust on top, within which the pests hide for protection. Their white armors are easy to spot when present on the stems and dark bars. Since they suck plant sap from within the stems and bark, you can see the leaves wilting earlier than the expected time, drying barks, and death in case of extreme infestation. - Source: Internet
  • Slow-growing things, like the Japanese maple, tend to be more susceptible to this (it’ll even grow on rocks!). Treatment: You can lift some lichens right off the tree without damaging it. You may want to wait until the tree’s dormant period so that you avoid damaging any buds. Alternatively, you can also prune leaves or branches that are covered. - Source: Internet
  • I have a 25 year old Japanese maple tree that has been losing leaves and branches over the past 6 years. The bark looks like it may have a fungus of some sort. The bark is peeling off near the base and there are whitish patches on the tree trunk. Can this tree be saved? - Source: Internet
  • This is one of the most concerning problems with Japanese Maple, where an entire branch can be affected. The initial symptom is discoloration of leaves and dying. Then, it will spread gradually to other healthy leaves on the same branch, affecting the branch itself. If not removed at the initial sighting of the symptom, the maple bonsai won’t last for a long time. - Source: Internet
  • Purple-bordered leaf spot leads to the formation of roughly circular dead areas (typically less than ¼ inch in diameter) on maple leaves. Spots have tan to brown centers and distinct purple, red, or brown margins. Tiny, black, pimple-like reproductive structures (called pycnidia) often form within the spots, and are diagnostic. As spots mature, the centers may fall out, leaving roughly circular holes. - Source: Internet
  • This is one of the most common diseases that most Japanese maple bonsais are affected by. Here, the top surface of the leaves forms a white, powdery layer caused due to mildew fungus. If you have kept the bonsai in a humid area or under direct sunlight, the chances of powdery mildew grow by ten times. The related fungus also thrives when the leaves of the maple bonsai don’t receive enough air. - Source: Internet
  • The spots first appear as small yellow spots in June. Then, they progress to the black spots on the leaves you see above. Their size ranges from one-eighth of an inch to an inch or more in diameter on the Norway Maple. The spots can also appear on the seeds (samaras). - Source: Internet
  • This group can be a little confusing, since the most common species of Japanese maples is A. palmatum. But in this case, this grouping can include other species as well. - Source: Internet
  • Sugar bushes, especially the sugar maple where logging activities are present Treatment: The main way to treat this is to prevent the tree’s roots from getting damaged, as this is how the fungus usually enters the tree. Damage could mean anything from an insect infestation weakening the tree to a car driving over the roots and wounding them. Some trees go into remission and recover without any treatment for unknown reasons. Some trees go into remission and then exhibit symptoms all over again. You may have to remove a tree that’s infected. - Source: Internet
  • While most variegated Japanese maples are green, ‘Shirazz’ is primarily red. In the spring, the leaves are dark red with light pink margins, before turning slightly greenish-red in the center with pink margins. This cultivar grows up to 15 feet tall. - Source: Internet
  • As for the tree not faring well, it probably will rebound since you have taken steps to correct the exposed root. While I hate to sound like a broken record lately, I’ve been using the Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub to treat my maples and other plants that were hit with the late frost. It helps reduce stress and stops many insects that would otherwise bother your trees. It only needs to be applied once a year. Next, I would make sure that the tree gets enough water if you don’t have a lot of rainfall- your tree will need this kind of TLC all summer. - Source: Internet
  • Hi, I’ve been planting sugar maples (small 18-24 inch saplings) on my property in Michigan for 5 years. I purchased some nice 12 foot trees last fall and planted them. Everything seemed to be fine but now most of the leaves are dead (dry up and turn brown) on one of the larger trees and the other one has lost a lot of the leaves in the top 1/3 of the tree. I have noticed that some of my small trees have brown spots on the leaves. Is it a fungal problem? What should I do? - Source: Internet
  • This condition typically occurs when trees experience long periods of cold, wet weather. The affected areas may show small, dark spots and irregularly-shaped leaves with dead or brown areas. The leaves usually fall off in the early spring, followed by a second set of leaves which also die off. The branches can also develop cankers, which often strip them of their bark and kill them. - Source: Internet
  • Many maples are susceptible to this, but Amur, Japanese, red, and silver maple seem especially so Treatment: The best treatment is an ounce of prevention. Be sure that the tree’s canopy isn’t overcrowded, that the tree isn’t over or under-watered, that any fallen leaves are removed, that any infected-looking leaves are removed, and that it has proper nutrients. You can also plant resistant strains. - Source: Internet
  • While the presence of white, fuzzy colonies of wooly alder aphids on a maple tree may cause alarm, they don’t cause serious harm to infested maples. (Damage is usually limited to the loss of some leaves.) Large wooly alder aphid populations usually collapse from predation and parasitism. Control efforts are not necessary. - Source: Internet
  • They usually emerge from the ground in April. You’re likely to see adults in March to May. Susceptible Species : Sugar maples are preferred hosts. - Source: Internet
  • Young maple shoots of many varieties are especially susceptible to this. Treatment: Keep the tree dry if you can (by moving sprinklers elsewhere, for instance). Prune any affected-looking branches, and then rake them up and dispose of them properly. Rake any fallen leaves as well. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Bob, Sap is common; it doesn’t signal the end of the tree’s life though. Maples can live a hundred years or more if they’re in a good spot. I have a row that are so big around, it takes 2, sometimes 3 people to join hands around them! (I’m guessing they were probably around during the Civil War or even earlier). It is too bad if they’re causing trouble for you, since they’re great shade trees. If you do cut them down, consider selling the lumber instead of giving it away- a healthy, large maple tree (or several) is valuable to lumber dealers. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Mike in Houston, The problem your tree is experience is probably related to either not enough water throughout the growing season (the Japanese maple needs a lot!), or it is exposed to a lot of wind. Alternatively, the Japanese maple is susceptible to two other problems that cause similar leaf problems: aphids (visible on the underside of leaves), which leave a sticky residue - I use Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub, as it kills sucking insects and fertilizes at the same time. Another problem is Verticillium Wilt - requires pruning to remove the affected branches. I’d go with the least invasive methods first, since you’re not sure of the source of the problem. - Source: Internet
  • Question: It is mid-April, and we had to trim some branches from our maple tree for a garage delivery. The sap dripped profusely where we cut the two branches, and the next day the bark turned black. Did we damage or kill the tree? - Source: Internet
  • Hi Theresa, Are there other trees, specifically maple trees, in your neighborhood that are exhibiting the same problem? I’m guessing it may be due to the late frost this year, which affected maple trees just about everywhere. If the rest of your tree looks okay, I suspect that it was just to do a late frost. Otherwise, problem indicators you should look for include insects and insect damage, and cracks or other damage to the bark of the tree- these indicate other problems that would require treatment. Feel free to call your local Cooperative Extension as well- they can tell you if there is a disease or frost damage issue in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Answer: My first thought on this was cottony maple scale, but it seems early in the season for this particular problem. Here is a link to the University of Minnesota’s web page on this particular problem for photos and reference: http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant… - Source: Internet
  • White spots or patches is probably due to powdery mildew that results in a dusty growth all over the top of the leaves. Similar to the brown spots mentioned above, white spots may cause the leaves to fall off as well, known as defoliation. If, however, you find white fuzzy patches on the tree’s trunk, it is probably lichens, which are normally found on trees that grow slowly, like the Japanese Maple. These fuzzy white patches are not a concern for the tree’s growth or health. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Peter, I’m not sure exactly what caused the death of the other maple you spoke of, but unless the Japanese Maple is exhibiting the same problem, it probably isn’t related. What is killing your tree, I believe, is that it has a split trunk, that is splitting even further. You probably only have one option, which is cutting off one of the trunks that developed in the Y. If that would make the tree aesthetically unpleasing, you probably should just cut down the tree. The reason the leaves are dying is because of the stress, and probably lack of water, due to the split. - Source: Internet
  • many thanks for your blog it is great! My name is Annie and I live at the other side of the Atlantic(in the UK). I desparately need your help please: I suspect that our maple tree has antracanosis. The tree is about 16 years old and over the last months started to loose the outer bark from the trunk and also some of leaves (some of the branches are leafless now). When I scratched the surface of the exposed inner bark,orange dust came off. - Source: Internet
  • I have a maple tree in my back yard. Half of the tree has leaves. The other halh of the tree is what I believe to be dead. No leaves, branches are very brittle and brake easly. Any suggestions? - Source: Internet
  • I’m not an arborist, but I am a maple syrup producer in NY. When the bark is coming off of a tree, and there are woodpecker holes, along with dying limbs, it usually means the tree is dying. Call your local Cooperative Extension office (your county office will have their number), and ask if they can help you identify what bug(s) are attacking your tree, and if the tree needs to come down for safety reasons. - Source: Internet
  • EARLY TREE DISEASE??? We have what may be a Japanese maple, about 15 feet tall, in front of our house in eastern Maryland. Soil is not very well drained, high amounts of clay and low lying, and it has been a very rainy year so far and much of last one too, but the tree has good drainage from where it stands as our yard slopes from there. On the south side of the bark it has a vertical thinly split region about 2 inches long with the bark around this sore turning black, and evidence of sticky maple dripping down the trunk under it and two feet down to the mulch below, where there are lots of tiny ants moving all around and up the trunk itself. I read elsewhere about using a sterile knife to cut around the sore and help the tree heal more efficiently (allegedly). Doesn’t sound unreasonable, but not really sure what the root cause is, so hesitant how best to act. - Source: Internet
  • Norway maple and Japanese maple, but almost all species of maple are susceptible to one strain or another. Treatment: The mildew can be brushed off. You can also apply horticultural oils and neem to help prevent the mildew from spreading. - Source: Internet
  • Question: The bark on my maple tree is peeling. Woodpeckers are active on the tree. Is the tree dying? - Source: Internet
  • The trees in my neighborhood have finally lost all of their leaves, and I noticed that my 2 maples have a lot more seeds than any others in the neighborhood. I have lived in my house for 24 years and they were large trees even then. I fear that they might be ill and are sending out seeds in a desperate attempt to leave a new generation behind. The trees have always been healthy, dark nicely shaped leaves and beautiful and they appeared to have the same amount of leaves as they always do. Any information you can give me would be very helpful. - Source: Internet
  • Hi – I have a red maple about 60 years old. Over the past few weeks, after a prolonged period of dry and very hot weather in NY, the leaves have turned from red to a greenish brown color and are drooping. Is this occurring from a lack of water? If so, will simply watering the area around the tree avoid any long-term damage/death? Thanks! - Source: Internet
  • Norway, silver, sycamore, and sugar, but almost all types of maple are affected by some form of tar spot or another. Treatment: It’s mainly cosmetic. It shouldn’t affect your trees in the long term. The fungus tends to hide in decomposing leaves. So the best way to protect against it is by cleaning up any dead leaves. - Source: Internet
  • Hi Lizanne, I’m not sure what you’re seeing on the leaves of the trees. Most fungal growths are brown or black, not white, on maple trees. I think a call to your local Cooperative Extension office may offer the answer, as they would be aware of any local conditions/problems in your area. - Source: Internet
  • Hi - I noticed what looked like sawdust around the base of my large soft maple tree. When I investigsted a little further I saw large black ants working hard on an old spot where a rather large limb had been pruned before we moved here 14 years ago. I’m guessing it is a soft spot in a 50 year old tree. Will these ants kill my tree? Should I try to get rid of them and if yes, how do I go aboput it? - Source: Internet
  • Powdery mildew doesn’t often cause lasting harm to the tree that it’s on because it just sits on the top of the leaf (as opposed to getting inside the roots or eating holes in the leaves). The infection is often tree-specific, so a strain that affects a sugar maple likely won’t affect a Japanese maple. You can let the mildew sit, and it may resolve itself. You can also resort to fungicides (both natural and chemical) to help fight it. Typically, those are only resorted to on commercial plants and bushes like roses and wheat. - Source: Internet
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