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- Rhododendrons flower in spring and if you see the leaves looking a bit yellow, that is obviously a good time to give it some fertiliser after they’ve finished flowering - just rhododendron and azalea fertiliser. You can see the growth that they put on in spring. That’s just momentous and if you’re looking to deadhead them or prune them, grab the old flower spike and twist between your fingers - it comes off like that and that will then send up new shoots like that. You could even get in with secateurs or a hacksaw and really give it a good hard prune, right into the wood back there and it will bounce back. - Source: Internet
- Part shade, morning sun - perfect for them. They love growing in hilly areas cause the air is a little bit cooler. They don’t like to grow down by the sea because the soil is too limey. - Source: Internet
- All rhododendrons are evergreen but there are two distinct types of azaleas. Evergreen azaleas (Japanese azaleas) typically grow to 40-80cm. Deciduous azaleas reach 120-150cm and lose their leaves in the autumn, often with stunning colours. - Source: Internet
- Choose a sheltered site with dappled shade but avoid deep shade beneath trees. Dwarf alpine species will cope with full sun as long as the soil does not dry out. Avoid frost pockets and sites exposed to early morning sun, which will damage flower buds. - Source: Internet
- Using the wrong fertiliser can lower the soil’s acidity; don’t use lime or other alkaline-based additives. Keep the soil’s pH level to about 5.5. Try to use organic fertilisers, as rhododendrons are susceptible to chemical burn. Fish or seaweed fertiliser is ideal. - Source: Internet
- Avoid planting when the rhododendron/azalea could get waterlogged in winter or dry out in summer - October or March/April are ideal times. Don’t plant too deeply, as members of the family are surface-rooting and the roots should be just covered. Apply an 8cm-deep loose mulch of chipped conifer bark or other acidic organic matter. Renew the mulch each spring. - Source: Internet
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